Scotland Road Trip: Friends, False Starts and a Few Detours

Scotland has a way of making time feel like it’s on fast-forward. One minute you’re in Glasgow, the next you’re watching ferries leave from Cairnryan and wondering if you imagined the whole thing. This trip wasn’t about ticking off the big sights – we’ve done John O’Groats before – it was about catching up with friends, finding new stopovers, and reminding ourselves that wild camping and campsite culture are two very different beasts.

Meeting the Convoy

We left Glasgow to meet up with Toni, Colum, Jean, Martin and their daughter Tilly.

But before that, we stayed in a small village on the route called Kirkmichael. It’s one of those one-shop, one hotel bar, one school sort of places. Nothing is going on, just a pure visual pleasure. The parking spot was a recommendation after we’d topped up our van with water for free at a garage; it was a 20-minute detour, and we weren’t for meeting with the group until the following day. So, why not?

Parked by a stream, the sun shining on my hungover face, having been beaten at all the pub games by Kathy the night before, was just what I needed before setting off again that afternoon to join the convoy.

By pure chance, we spotted them before Inverness – layby, chairs, table, lunch all spread out. Classic. I did warn them about the etiquette: parking up is fine, but technically you’re not supposed to “set up camp” in a roadside layby. They’re more used to campsites; we’re happier in a random corner of nowhere.

In Inverness, we grabbed a bite in a dog-friendly restaurant. They insist on taking their dogs everywhere. Ours? They couldn’t care less as long as they’ve got water, blinds down to block the heat, and a roof vent open. Motorhome = home.

We parked up for the night in a free spot near some sports fields. They shot off to John O’Groats the next day. We skipped it – been there, done that – and agreed to meet again in three days at Ullapool.

Colaboll Bliss

On the way, we stumbled across Colaboll (58.0655, -4.449598) on Loch Shin. Honestly? To most people it looks like nothing special. To us, it was absolute bliss. Empty, peaceful, and with the occasional RAF fighter jet screaming overhead just to make sure we didn’t get too relaxed. We liked it so much we stayed two days straight.

When we finally rolled into Ullapool, going through some really narrow roads with countless passing places ready for the big reunion, turns out the others had changed their minds and headed back to Inverness. Three hours off the newly “agreed” track. Annoying, yes. But we shrugged, said “fuck it”, and kept rolling. Next stop Ben Nevis.

Nessie Sunbathing & Ben Nevis

From there, Kathy and I pulled into Loch Ness for one of the best lunch stops of the trip, a roadside layby, suntrap, chairs out, light lunch, and a bit of people-watching. Yes, I know, etiquette and all that, but this stop was different. A normal layby, but tucked in at the back of it was some flat ground out of view of everyone. Perfect for a little snooze after our usual yoghurt and fruit-mix lunch. I couldn’t even tell you where this stop was; it was pure luck that we came across it. I was only stopping initially to use the bins!

Later, we aimed for Ben Nevis. The gang wanted to meet at the Ben Nevis Inn (Achintee Rd, Fort William). Great food, good company – but no overnight parking unless you find a cheeky space outside the gates. We couldn’t, so we bounced around town trying to avoid parking tickets before landing at the Glen Nevis Mountain Range. £15 a night, BBQ fired up, drinks flowing, and proper chill.

The next night we gave in and stayed at the Glen Nevis Camping Site. Pricey but practical, and it meant we could roll straight into family time the following day. After a few beers and birthday gifts handed over to Toni, we said our goodbyes and tucked in for the night.

Family, Loch Lomond, and the Long Goodbye

Our friends dashed off for their ferry Saturday morning. We drifted down the Loch Lomond side, stopping for lunch at the Loch Lomond Arms in Luss. From there it was back to family time – first my daughter’s place Saturday night, then my son’s on Sunday. By late afternoon, we were back at Cairnryan docks, tickets in hand, ready to roll home.

Campsites vs Wild Camping

This trip summed up the divide between campsite culture and wild camping freedom. Our pals like the structure of booking in, plugging in, and tethering the dogs nearby. We’re happier with a half-hidden layby, the blinds down, and Starlink whirring away.

Yes, we dipped into sites; £15 at Glen Nevis was worth it for the BBQ and banter, but less so the £48 we spent the next night, just because we followed the crowd. I’d have much preferred to stay where we were, but we’d already booked the last night’s stop. Lesson learned.

Scotland, Done Our Way

Departing Glasgow, side-stepping into Kirkmichael, then Inverness to Loch Shin, Ben Nevis to Loch Lomond, this trip wasn’t about hitting big landmarks. It was about freedom, finding spots that suited us, and enjoying the perks of being self-sufficient.

Scotland delivered, even if our convoy didn’t always stick to the plan.